Airplanes, Landmines, and Insanity

It’s 10:30 pm.  I’m at the Saigon Airport.  Katie and I are waiting until 3:30 am to check our bags for our 5:40 am flight.  Everyone else went through and waited at their gate at around 9 pm, but we’re stuck on the other side for six and half more hours.  This sucks so far.  Katie’s just been chillin’ on facebook talking to her boyfriend on her Kindle Fire and I’m just sitting here with my thumb up my ass.  Let me take this opportunity to try to catch up on the events of the past few days before my thumb gets prune-y.

The 14th

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

After misplacing my badge at Angkor Wat, we walked up to Angkor Wat.  We had already seen it from a distance the day before so that took a little bit of the suspense out of the sunrise’s unveiling of Angkor Wat.  The sunrise was very pretty and the amount of tourists was pretty nuts for it being 5 am.  Everyone with their cameras stuck to their faces – I wonder if they even enjoyed the sunrise beyond that lens.  Why save something for later when you can enjoy it in its utmost authenticity now?  I know some people really connect with their surroundings by taking photos – I understand that – but sometimes I find it way more engaging, for myself, to snap a photo and then just cross my arms, breathe, and admire the beautiful sight that is before me.  Maybe I’ll snap another photo when the moment seems right, but keeping the camera glued to my face is not something I like to do.  Granted, I do take plenty of photos myself, but I also strive to take the time to revel in the beauty of the moment before quickly stepping away.  So many people look, snap, leave [in general, not necessarily during the sunrise].  What’s the point?  They didn’t actually see what they took a picture of.  They will forever only have the memory of that photo and nothing more.

What it is really like at 5 am at Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat was something else though.  Very goregous.  We even took a hot air balloon up to view the kingdom from afar.  Since it was still morning, the morning fog was still looming so we got a different view of the kingdom.  [I must say that I wish I has reveled in the moment better on the hot air balloon, but in all honesty, due to the fog it was different than I had expected.]  [By the way, I apologize for the potential snappy/cranky/complainy tone of this entry.  I’m very exhausted and upset that I’m stuck with my luggage for the next five hours.]

Tourist Kate – wearing a T-shirt about the site I am seeing

Hot Air Balloon

After exploring in, around, and about Angkor Wat we went back to the hotel and I tried to get some sun by the pool.  I have a little tan – hopefully enough to get me through to Spring Break.  I briefly chatted with Nick on facebook, but he was going his radio show so he was taking forever to respond, so I took that time to tan instead of wait in the shade online.

We went to Bantreay Srei around 2:30 pm.  It’s a very small temple with a small mote, but the carvings are very intricate – so much so that this area is one of the most prized temples of the Angkor region.  I thought it was nice.  The sun was quite hot and the air quite humid [but now as I’m typing this back in Wisconsin, I would LOVE to be back in that weather!].

Bantrey Sri

We went to the mining museum after this – something that I had misunderstood before and wanted to skip to tan/cancerize my skin.  The museum was small and a part of it took care of children whose lives were affected by landmines.  I never knew what was meant by the term ‘landmines.’  I always thought mines dealt simply with coal [ignorance is bliss].  Landmines are actually bombs dropped or placed by soldiers to blow someone up when they encounter them.  There is no other purpose for these placed landmines than to kill people by surprise.  The US dropped landmines all over Cambodia and Laos, many of which have recently gone off – after thirty years of waiting.  The US specifically designed many of their landmines to be colorful and toy-like to attract children to them.  People of all ages today are still getting killed by bombs set up over thirty years ago – still getting killed by a war that ended thirty years ago.

The museum is a collection of these landmines that an ex-kid soldier for the Khmer Rouge deactivated for people.  [He started out with the Khmer Rouge and eventually fought against them later in his life.]  He used to set up the mines, so he knows how to deactivate them without killing himself in the process.  He says that he believes he has deactivated at least 50,000 mines in his lifetime.

[Huge sidenote -> Katie is drively me insane right now.  SHE’S PACING IN FRONT OF ME.  Ten times so far.

Quick paces.  15 step paces.  Ok, I need to stop counting.  You get the point.  I’m going crazy.]

Anyways, it was very a very interesting museum and did teach me a lot about landmines that I did not know before.  If you’re interested in learning more about this museum and the NGO, go to www.cambodialandminemuseum.org.

It was such a long day by this point and we were all very exhausted, but the tour guide wasn’t done with us.  Bantreay Sani Re was pretty awesome.  It was near the end of the day so no visitors were at this one and we had free range of the place.  I felt like I was in some video game, since I found myself alone between the two outer walls.  I decided to leave the temple through the east entrance to take a photo.  A road led away from it and I could see a little town a couple hundred yards away.  It would have been so easy to just walk to the town and no body would have known where I went.  While it was tempting, the thought also freaked me out, so I snapped my picture and ran inside the temple walls.  I haven’t actually felt freaked out in a while, so it was really nice to be reminded that I’m human.  When this temple was discovered it was completely covered  by forest.  Can you imagine what it would be like to stumble upon some old ruins like that?  So, so cool.  I was born in the wrong era.

Tonle Sap Lake – Fresh Thoughts Before I Forget

9 pm

I went on the most fantastic boat ride tonight.  It made me all motivated to do something spectacular with my life.  [I’m going to write about today before the past two days while its still fresh in my mind.]  We got on this tourist boat in a crowded water passage way with dozens of other tourist boats and locals’ boats.  Some locals had food stands on the dirt road that led to the boats – one stand had fried snakes, so we all split one.  It seriously tasted like chicken.  Our boat was facing the wrong direction, so our driver and tour guide, along with two other guys on small boats tried to turn us around – we only hit three other boats in the process.  That’s how tight it was!  The boat literally scraped up against nearly every boat we passed until we got past the loading area.  It was us quite some time to do all of that.

Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia

In transit to the Tonle Sap Lake

I was really excited to see the floating villages on the Tonle Sap Lake, but because it is the dry season, the houses’ stilts were all visible and very high.  The village doesn’t look so floaty this time of the year.  The village was breath taking – to me it was a very beautiful place.  Yes, it was dirty and through Western eyes, it could be seen as less than satisfactory and unsanitary, but the structures were so intricate and awesome that I really didn’t care that others wouldn’t see the beauty in it as I did.

The Floating Villages

It was very common to see young boys and girls rowing little boats around, as was it common to see children and adults bathing in the wide open.  When one’s life is always on display, one has no choice but to bathe in “public,” for lack of a better word.  One little boy sat on his boat – not older than seven – dipping his shorts in the water and then scrubbing it with powder detergent.  I saw one woman washing her have with the lake/river water.  The water is brown, full of parasites and microbes and it the depository area for waste.  What I say waste, I don’t just mean human.  Pigs live in these floating villages too.  They are kept in small kennel-like cages on stilts above the water.  During the rainy season, people collect the rainwater for consumption, but during the dry season they have to purchase their water from an outside source – or resort to the lake water.  It frustrates me that these people have to buy water.  No one on this earth should have to buy water.  That being said, I’m not sure how clean that woman’s face got, or how clean that little boy’s shorts got.

Angkor Thom and No Rest for the Weary

Angkor Thom was unbelievably awesome.  I thought My Son was cool – Angkor Thom was like 50 times cooler.  It was the old Angkor city of the 13th century.  It was so neat.  The old buildings and temples were in very good shape, although some restoration was done to different parts.  They were very good about letting us know that information.  Bayon is the center of the Angkor Thom and it’s magnificent.  We not only were able to just look at the structures from afar, we were able to walk in and around the temples like they used to back in the day.  In some places [not all] we were able to touch the carvings.  The contact and interaction was so awesome.  One thing they do try to do is to get people to donate money by offering incense to certain buddhas.  No sure how I feel about that.

Angkor Thom

I didn’t realize that Angkor Thom was on one of the riel bills.  Our tour guide told us EVERYTHING but which places we were seeing are on the bills.  “There used to be five hotels here, now there are 115.”  “This is a school.”  “Those pigs on the back of that motorbike are living.”  “This is the Grand Hotel.  This the _____ Hotel.”  “Look at those ducks – they are living.”  “That is the male hill and the female hill.”  SO ANNOYING.  ALLLLLL the way to Siem Reap he talked.  That’s FOUR HOURS STRAIGHT.  I was just trying to read my book and take a nap or two but NOOOOO.  No nap for you weary one!  Look at those ducks!

Angkor Thom

Anyways, I’m not sure how I feel about the restoration of buildings or re-carving of carvings on these temples – or just places in general.  I understand that if they never did restorations, places such as these wouldn’t be around for me to see and explore.  At the same time, I wonder if the buildings lose their authenticity with each restoration project.  It’s an issue I’ve always been torn on and continue to stress over.

After we got back to the hotel, Dreux, Michelle, Morris, and I went to the central market – which was really the Western Downtown – another Western paradise.  So many foreigners!  Wow!  After sifting through all the western restaurants – Mexican [Morris and I REALLY wanted to go here], Italian, pizza, you name it – we found a side street with local family street vendors who were very eager for our business.  The food was great and my dragonfruit shake was even GREATER.

That night Michelle stayed up until one thirty and I just couldn’t fall asleep with her typing noise and the lights on.  Any other night I just pass the fuck out at six pm with my roommate typing and the lights on, but for some reason I was sleeping like I do at home.  At home it takes me a good thirty minutes to fall asleep and I need dead silence and complete darkness in order to do so.  [It’s a hard knock life.]  She eventually was exiled to the bathroom to continue her studies.  It was the worst night to get no sleep because we had to be up bright [well, not really – it was still dark] and early for Angkor Wat at the 5 am sunrise.

We hopped on the bus at 5 am while it was still dark out and took the seven kilometer drive to Angkor Wat. After we showed our badges at the gate, we were dropped off at the mote of Angkor Wat.  It was completely dark out so I was careful to watch my step.  I had to present my badge again before crossing the mote – but I couldn’t find it.  I thought I had lost it.  I chased the bus down – literally – and had the bus driver Mr. Un help me out.  It was in my wallet.  The exact place I knew I put it and the exact place I looked at the checkpoint, but it was too dark to see.  I eventually caught up with everyone.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Shit in My Eye and a Cambodian Wedding

I think I’m seriously lacking something in my diet here.  I am getting sick so easily!  I already had a wretched week and a half cold, but now I think I’m getting another one!  I’ve only been sick-free for five days.  PLUS my eye has been pinkish and goopy when I’ve woken up the past two mornings, yet the color subsides after I’m awake for awhile.  Also, the goop is never crusty and my eye is never sealed shut like the past episodes of pink eye I’ve had in my life.  I’m so confused.  I’ve been starting my days with sunglasses so no one notices my eye discoloration.  I’m already the sick person on the trip.  I don’t need to be the person who got shit in their eye, too.

Yesterday was a great day.  Our group left Phnom Penh and traveled to Kompong Cham to spend the night.  It was about a two and half hour trip.  We stopped at Spean Brab Tes Bridge on the way – a bridge that is nearly 1,000 years old.  It was absolutely beautiful.  I did some almost planking there which was pretty cool.  Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that that bridge was on the 5,000 riel bill, so I was unable to take a picture of it with the bill exactly how it is on the bill.  [By the way – new life goal, in visiting all the countries in the world, I want to see each site that is on their currency and take a photo of the currency and that site together, just how it is on the currency.]  I missed my opportunity in this instance, but maybe I’ll just superimpose the currency and my hand onto the photos I already took of the place.

Half way through we stopped at some spider village.  It was really just a wayside tourist trap with lots of food for sale and a WC [water closet, which is a restroom].  There were seven young girls waiting outside the bus door when we were stepping off, telling us how handsome and beautiful we were so we would buy their pineapples and mangoes.  They followed us around  as we checked out the stands – it was really sad … and really annoying.  Some vendors sold fried tarantulas, frogs, cicadas, and crickets.  Out group had some people try them, but I couldn’t get myself to do it.  Normally, I’d be SO down for eating stuff like that.  This trip has made me seriously consider vegetarianism [although I won’t admit that to Nick] or at least seriously cutting down on my meat consumption.

I tried to get the sales girls to snap out of their fake sales pitch personalities with “What’s your name?” followed by “How old are you?”  The two girls I asked were both 14, and they weren’t shy at all.  They both thought I was 18 and seemed shocked when I said 21.  One girl said, “My sister is 21 and she looks old!  You look so young!”  Interesting.  She probably just wanted me to buy a frickin pineapple.

After this we stopped at Wat KoKor temple near Kompong Cham.  It was a Mahayana temple originally built in the 12th century.  From the outside it’s very crumbled and looks vacant, but as we went beyond the sandstone walls and through the doorways we found that it is very alive.  In the 15th century the main portion of the temple was added.  Inside three monks lounged and napped on the floor.  It was so colorful and beautifully decorated with cloth strips on a string.  It was such a peaceful place, an atmosphere I love to spend copious amounts of time in.

My favorite picture in the whole world.

We continued on to the market.  It was very similar to the markets in HCMC, but it wasn’t wholesale and it wasn’t very busy.  In those market buildings it’s a huge maze and hard to tell who to pay sometimes because merchandise overlaps.  It was obvious that this market was geared towards locals and not tourists because there were not very many trinkets and souvenirs – there were more practical things … like Angry Birds flip-flops. :]

Shortly after we arrived to out VIP hotel, we went on a bike ride around Kompong Cham.  Little did we know we’d be taking a bamboo bridge across the Mekong River.  The bumpiness and sturdiness of the bridge is comparable to the Trojan Horse go-kart tracks at Mount Olympus in Wisconsin Dells – very bumpy!

The Bamboo Bridge

We biked through the villages on the other side of the river – a great first hand experience of the third world.  All the children were excited to see us and gave us hellos and high fives as we passed by.  The men [at least ones that appear to be my age] in Cambodia are very handsome – so I saw many handsome men in these villages.  We took a turn towards a temple and heard this awesome music that sounded very celebratory and jovial. It was the soundtrack to my bikeride.  Turns out it was a Cambodian wedding at the end of the road!  It was so awesome!  Round tables of men drinking of out glass mugs cheers-ed to us and encouraged us to drink with them.  They blew kisses to me and I blew them back.  Why the hell not?  Dressed up women in short colorful mini skirts sang on stage and did a two step movement to the music.  [Dreux said it is very possible that they were ‘working’ girls.]  The bride and groom both looked beautiful in matching traditional teal outfits.  As Dreux, Morris, and I watched the wedding reception, some Cambodian man opened a beer and gave it to Dreux!  It was great!  Dreux handed it to Morris and he and I shared the Anchor Beer [nice and warm].  We thought everyone else left us until we saw one of our bikes parked by the reception … and saw Jake at a table slamming beers with the Cambodian men.  Too funny!  We got his attention and the four of us continued biking – the wrong way.  Morris and I can officially say we drank and drove in the forest of Cambodia now though!  It was so cool.  It was an amazing bike ride. My crotch really hurts from the bumpiness of the bamboo bridge now though.  Ouch.

Cambodian Wedding

Wedding Beer!

Sunset from the Bamboo Bridge

Last night at dinner, Michelle and I ate at some random street vendor.  I had some beef jerky and rice and an ABC stout beer [which I didn’t like simply because I don’t like stouts].  This dirty little boy with a baby tied to him came up to me and kept saying, “One dollarrr.  One dollarrrr.”  in the most monotone, sad voice ever.  I responded, “No dollar, sweetie.  No dollar.” because I literally didn’t have any dollars on me.  He persisted.  Finally he just pointed at my food, indicating he wanted some.  So I gave him a small handful of jerky.  I would much rather give him food he’s going to eat than give him money he might not directly benefit from.  He seemed pretty happy – and he acted like he had tricked me and gotten away with something.  I don’t know.  Whatever.

We drove to Siem Reap today.  It’s the last leg of the trip – our last hotel.  Sad face :[  We checked into our hotel an hour or two ago and we’re currently heading to Angkor Thom.  I got a legit three day pass with my face on it for identification!

Brace Yourself – This One’s A Doozy in More Ways Than One.

So I’m currently sitting at a Chinese kindergarten in Phnom Penh, Cambodia and four little boys keep peeking at me and are giggling their little heads off. They are the cutest little boys ever!  [I really need to catch up with this journal.]

To finish my birthday night – Mai Shoua and I, to everyone else’s concern, took a cab by ourselves to Fuc Tan.  When we got there it was kind of dead and seemed like some sort of basement/garage/bar party.  Mai Shoua bought each of us a beer and we got approached right away by some cute Vietnamese guys.  One was Oc and the other didn’t share his name.  We met this chick named Cindy who is Vietnamese and from California.  She looked 23 – but she was 34! She was out mother for the night, making sure we were having fun and kissing us on the cheeks all the time.

The other Vietnamese guy (cute one) started dancing with me as Mai Shoua danced with the French guy named Joe was 19.  Then I leaned in and kissed this Vietnamese guy!  Not make out, just a kiss and immediately regretted it.  He wouldn’t leave me alone!  He said, “Can I kiss you?”, waited for no response – and kissed me.  Again.  I knew at this point I had to ignore him.  So I continued dancing.  Joe (who I kept calling David) dipped me a few times while we were dancing.  We also all did dancing in a circle where we all had our arms around each other – like six of us.  It was so fun!  I’m glad the whole group didn’t go .

Then I decided to ask some of the other Westerners where they were from.  The four guys I approached were from Ireland and had the sexiest accents ever!  I don’t think I had ever had a conversation with an Irish man before.  One guy kept talking to me, and guessed I was from the States.  I told him it was my 21st birthday and he said he was 23.  Then he asked, “Do you have a boyfriend?”  I responded, “Well, back in the states…”  He said, “Then can I have a birthday kiss? …”  “… YES!”  So we kissed – just a kiss, nothing else.  I forget what else we talked about because I couldn’t really understand him through all the noise and his thick ass accent.  Then he offered to buy me a shot  – I requested tequila.  It was a good shot, because a free shot is always a good shot.  By this point, I’m hammered.  I lie to Mai Shoua that Nick and I are on a break and tell her (the truth) that me and this guy were going to go outside because I couldn’t hear a word he was saying.

We went outside – I pulled him by the hand – and he leans me up against one of the cars and we began kissing.  HE WAS SUCH A GREAT KISSER.  Amazing.  I stopped us at one point and said, “You came to Vietnam to kiss Vietnamese girls!  No American girls!”  Then I asked if he had ever kissed an American girl – he said no – and I giggled and said I had never kissed an Irish boy before either (let alone a European guy).  We continued making out.  I must had stopped again at some point, but all I remember is him saying, “My God, you’re such a good kisser.”  That was hot.  I did the whole hand on this face, neck, hair thing with the other hand on his waist – it was sexy – and id I had been single, not on my period, and not heading to Cambodia at six am – three hours from then – I might have considered sleeping with him.  Mai Shoua then came outside with the Vietnamese guys and we decided that we should leave.  I wrote my name in his phone and he said, “I’m Stephen Flynn – I’ll Facebook you.”  He hasn’t yet (and never did) but Facebook is hard to get in that part of Vietnam.  God he was such a great kisser and had the sexiest accent ever.

January 9th
I woke up still drunk, which made the plane rides horrible.  We flew to Vientiane, Laos, and had a one hour layover of which I slept on a chair.  I was dying from staying out so late and drinking so much.  Drink count by the end of the night was six beers and two shots of tequila – yikes!  The second flight was a little more manageable, but the landing was horrible.  I acquired mild motion sickness, while Darla acquired extreme motion sickness and puked.  Michelle forgot her camera on the plane and Mai Shoua forgot her passport on the plane.  Luckily they were able to retrieve both items before we left the airport.

Our first stop was the hotel and then we went to the Royal Palace where many monks dressed in orange were.  It was pretty and we took our shoes off a lot [which I LOVE] to enter the various temples.  I wish we had had more time to ourselves to think and less time listening to Kun, our tour guide, talk.  It would have been a great opportunity for me to collect my thoughts and regroup after being constantly surrounded by people and the same people 24/7.

Afterwards we were unable to avert the city cyclo tour around Phnom Penh.  We’ve all given up in that sense.  We stopped at the most random places and got random group pictures.  We stopped at the post office for four minutes … cool.  I changed cyclo drivers, realizing my cyclo driver was going to be offended.  I changed back though.  What’s up with people pairing up and seeing change as not liking the first person?

We went to some restaurant that trains street kids how to be servers.  They had fried tarantulas and red ants on the menu!  The food was really good, but it was expensive compared to what we are used to.  After this meal we went back to the hotel and I fell asleep at 8:45 pm while reading my book “The Perfect War.”

January 10th [Also partly academic journal]

At 8:30 am we started the day off on a sad note.  We went to the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum.  It was the former office [S.21] of the Kampuchea Democratic Khmer Rouge Regime.  It used to be an old high school, but it was converted into a death camp for people the Khmer Rouge believed were against the revolution.  These people were usually ‘elites’ or those who were from the urban areas and were thought to have a lot of money – comedians, actors, singers, teachers, merchants, Vietnamese, business people – the list goes on.  The people hadn’t done anything, but they were tortured horribly.  They had their fingernails or nipples ripped off, drowned until unconscious, hung by limbs until unconcious, shackled together with fifty other people lying down in a room, water thrown on them, kicked, hit, beaten with tree branches, and while it was not mentioned, I’m positive the women were brutally raped.  But no women survived so there were no women to tell the story of what happened behind those doors.

The Khmer Rouge took pictures of every single man, woman, child, and baby that went threw S-21.  It was a wretched feelings staring into the eyes of these people knowing they all had suffered here, been tortured here, and died either there or in the killing fields 15 kilometers away.  The Khmer Rouge used young people from the villages- teenagers to late twenties – to torture these people.  Indoctrinating the youth of the rural, uneducated areas into killing and torturing machines was very easy to do.  It gave these young people something to believe in, but they also put these people in a position of danger – “Torture and kill these people or we will kill you and find someone else to do the job.”  What a sick game.  Then those kids would torture innocent people until the innocent people either died or confessed to made up stories.  So the kids validated torturing these people who wouldn’t confess because they thought those that didn’t confess were lying and therefore guilty and those that do confess are guilty.  Everyone’s guilty then and deserves to die!

After this we went to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields.  This is the place they took the prisoners to when they were no longer of use to the Khmer Rouge.  They would smash babies and toddlers against the ‘killing tree’ and smash people with shovels as they pushed them into the mass graves after slitting their throats with banana tree bark.  [Killing people with guns and bullets was too expensive, so they killed them in alternative ways.  This resulted in many people being buried alive.]  They buried people everywhere in this field – even though all this heinous killing and burying was done in an old Chinese cemetery.  People excavated 26 of the 120-ish mass graves.  One of the graves contained people with no heads and one contained only naked women and children.  Since many of the 20,000 people killed are still buried, clothes can be found everywhere.  Articles of clothing are slowly uprooting from underground – so much so that it looks like clothing is literally growing out of the soil. It’s so eery and so sobering.  The people who take care of the grounds collect clothing everyday that free themselves from the ground.  To think that the last time those clothes saw daylight was under the most traumatizing of experiences.  If only clothes could talk.  There is a huge stupa that was created to house the nearly 8,000 skulls from the excavated graves.  It is so sad.  To think that we’re all dust in the wind and that one day I’ll be just a skull, too.

Later on, sitting in the hotel room…

After that reality check, Kun wanted to take us to an orphanage.  An ORPHANAGE.  Why in the world would we want to go to an ophanage after that?  Why in the world would us white foreigners feel the right to go stare at some poor, orphaned children in a third world country like they’re some sort of exhibit?  We averted this event because we didn’t feel it was right.  Instead we went out to eat at a market.

On a lighter note, my lunch that day consisted of some deep fried spinach patty, Cambodian ban my, a green Fanta, and an avocado shake.  Avocado shakes are amazing.  It sounds kinda gross, but it reminded me a lot of a green tea shake.  We spent some time at the market and I got Nick another bracelet.

We went to the Cambodian National Museum after this.  Besides the lingas, the museum was overwhelming and kind of boring [sorry Dreux].  They had people with flowers and money offerings set up for different Hindu and Buddhist gods and they try to get you to pay money to put a flower in a vase in front of the statue.  I got away with not paying and just put the flower in the jar with a bow.  No big deal.  But apparently it was a big deal because after doing that, this crazy Australian lady came up to me and asked why I did it.  I said that they must want me to give a flower to this statue and that maybe it was apart of their religion.
“But why the money?”
“Because it’s probably going towards the museum and church and people who work here.  I don’t know.  I never give money.”
“THE MONEY DOESN’T GO TO THE POOR PEOPLE!  WHY GIVE THE MONEY!?”
I tried to shrug it off as “Yeah, I know,” but she kept attacking me so I said, “I am a student.  I did not give money and have no money to give.  Next time think before you approach someone. It you had actually watched carefully, you would have seen that I gave no money.”
She then started yelling at some statue and walked away.  No one tries to make me feel stupid without me standing up for myself.  Anyways, we went on a boat ride on the Mekong River, a tributary of the Mekong Delta.  Jake, Mai Shoua, and I had a Cambodia beer on the boat.  There was also a really cute dog that chilled at the front of the boat – oh the life.  There were boat people who lived on boats on the river – it was a Muslim community.

We went out for dinner at a restaurant Kun suggested, but it was so expensive!  We need to stop taking his suggestions!  Nine dollars a person – and yes it was quoted in dollars!  There were people that sang on the stage – mostly women – and while they were the hosts, we got the feeling that were escorts, too.  Some of them looks too young to be taken home by old drunk men at the end of the night, though.

Today

Today we didn’t do a whole lot and it was nice.  We finally got to interview some people again – and this time some women!  Finally got my women’s health questions answered by women!  Dreux translated for me for one of the women I talked to.  The other girl I interviewed was 23 and spoke English.  She had never heard of contraceptives such as condoms before.  She only heard of a pill that women can take after they get married so they don’t get pregnant.

The place we conducted the interviews at was a Chinese temple with a Chinese kindergarten and elementary and middle school attached to it.  It was pretty high tech, too!  Projectors, computer rooms, etc.  They get donors from all over the world and the school is one of the top schools in Cambodia.  All Chinese learning books are sent there by the Chinese government and they dispense them throughout the country.  As I wrote before, the little boys kept waving and giggling because of me writing in this journal [this has been converted to a blog].  One yelled, “What’s your name?” and ran behind a tree giggling and I said, “My name is Kate.  What is your name?”  They were so cute!  And when I left they waved and said, “Good bye!  See you tomorrow!”  What dolls.

The rest of the day was chill.  Michelle and I went to a very nice coffee house that reminded me of home.  I got a blended mocha coffee and felt a little less homesick.  Michelle and I chatted and searched for food, but most places were done serving food until dinnertime.  [Street food seems like it’s people making food for their families and then extra for selling.]  We came back to the hotel and I bought BBQ off-brand Pringles and coconut milk.  Not too filling.  Made me feel sick.  We had lecture for two hours.  I knew a lot of what Dreux was talking about so I was able to follow the lecture a lot better than I think others did.

We went to an Indian restaurant tonight and waited an hour for our food.  We were SO hungry, so of course it tasted really good.  It reminded me of home too and helped me with my slight homesickness.  While I’m excited to go home in a week, I’m really starting to get used to being away.  Not sure I want to go home yet.  I feel like there is a hump that one must go over to be able to be away from home for a long time and I think I’m just about over that hump.  I’m right at the top and slowly making the descent down.

Realizing My Drink Wasn’t Covered

I’m currently in my hotel toom in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, but I would like to elaborate on the events of my 21st birthday before sharing about Cambodia so far.

We went out to a bar [the first one] called Le Pub.  It was a Western paradise and I really liked it. I drank the cheapest beer on the menu – La Rue.  It wasn’t too bad for costing only 25,000 dong and came in a 16 oz bottle.  Dreux came out for a drink, too, which was pretty cool.  After some mini pizzas we kept walking down the street in search for a bar called 69 Bar.  I dubbed this a bar crawl until 69 Bar because I did not want to waste my whole night looking for one bar.  We stumbled upon an empty club called EZ Club.  No one was really in there, but it was a Sunday night so we didn’t really expect much for the club scene anyway.  It turned out to be a hookah bar too, so we got a hookah and a beer.  Katie and Darla didn’t get a beer, but they didn’t play the sober card all night either [the “Oh-you’re-too-drunk-sweetie” card], so I was happy.  At this empty club we realized that we were antsy for some movement.  Some people wanted to dance, but I really wanted kareoke.  We left this bar and to our pleasant surprise we stumbled upon a bumping club just down the street.

IT WAS GREAT.  Got some different Vietnamese beer in a mug and hit the dance floor.  I was quite the hot commodity in the bar – or at least that’s how I felt.  My buzz was turning into my drunk around this point and I really got my dance on.  In doing so, I accidentally spilled beer on the kinda cute, trendy, looked like Abbie’s ex, Vietnamese guy’s scarf.  I overly apologize [you know, flirting], but he kept eyeing me up after this from across the room for the rest of the night.  But I was dancing like an idiot, and being one of the only two white girls in the club, a lot of people looked at me all night anyways.  [Side note – one thing about being white in this part of the world is that everyone stares at me.  Not the stare where they look away embarrassed for looking so long, but the “holy-shit-you’re-really-pale-are-you-an-alien” stare that they aren’t ashamed of.  It’s something I’m still not used to.  That being said, not everyone does this.  This happens mostly in parts where not many tourists visit and usually it’s elderly woman, young children, or women my age.]

At this point I realized my drink had not been covered at all – meaning about ten minutes.  So I told the group that I hadn’t had it covered and that if I suddenly started acting really really drunk that I had been drugged.  I wasn’t sure how popular or affordable those kinds of drugs were in this part of the world, so I took much caution.  I danced with a couple Vietnamese guys, got a couple glares from some Vietnamese girls, and drank three beers and a shot of tequila [of course].  The scarf guy kept staring at me though!  When I was taking a dance break, we cheers-ed and then he poured some of his beer in my mug.  Um, excuse me?  Noooo, thank you.  Katie saw it and said not to drink it [well no shit sherlock], but I already didn’t plan on consuming it, so I just smiled, put the drink on the table, and walked about without taking a sip.  That shit’s sketchy.

While Jake puked outside after his dance-off and tri-tequila shot awesomeness, Mai Shoua and I chatted with three people from New Zealand – Tom, Laura, and Harley.  They were the only other Westerners in the bar, so I wanted to find out where they were from.  Apparently Tom owns a Vietnamese restaurant in Hanoi, so he has lived there for three years.  They told us that the clubs shut down around midnight so we inquired as to where to go after that.
“Fuc Tan.  Take a cab.  Say Fuc Tan or Lighthouse.  It’s an all night bar.”
“That sounds great.  What price should we pay for a taxi?”
“No more than 40,000.  Maybe we’ll see you there.”
I got Tom’s card and continued dancing.  I moved to the front of the club by the DJs and was joined by the crew.  At around one in the morning the cops kicked everyone out and we went outside.  This group of Vietnamese guys was like,
“You are so fun!  You are so crazy!”
“IT’S MY BIIIIRTHHHDAYYAAAYYYY!”  [The drunk voice had kicked in.]
“How old are you?”
“guesssssssss!”
“17.”  “26.”  “23.”  “19.”
“21!”  They seemed surprised.
Outside there were some white guys making me guess where they were from but I couldn’t figure it out.  Even when they said their country starts with an I and ends with an L.  ISRAEL.  Duh me.  So I said, “Fuck!”  One guys said, “Don’t swear!”  I responded, “Is shit ok?”  “Yes, shit is ok.”  “SHIT!”
[Will finish story tomorrow and catch up.  So exhausted.  Goodnight.]

Big-Footed Woman

I’m currently sitting at the airport in Hanoi to head to Cambodia.  I’ll pick up and summarize the past few days and tell about last night.  The 7th we headed to Ha Long Bay.  It was about four hours away by bus.  We stayed on a “traditional Chinese junk” that wasn’t actually traditional, but it was still pretty nice.  Actually, it was too nice.  We had the whole boat to the nine of us – talk about where the expense of the trip went!  The boat was beautiful and proudly displayed a three star sign in the front of it.  They fed us interesting food – Michelle’s [who is a vegetarian] meal once consisted of corn soup, deep fried corn, fried corn, deep fried tofu, fried tofu, and fried peanuts.  TOO FUNNY.  The sights were beautiful.  Rock formations everywhere that were impossible to develop on, so that was very nice.  On arrival we went to the floating village in one part of the bay.  Duc told us that some people have never been on land before – so crazy, meaning many people have never run far before.  We wore bright orange life jackets along with the many other tourist boats wearing the same thing.

I wonder what’s it like to live in a place that is always on display.  Before the tourist industry decided to capitalize on the uniqueness of the floating villages, people probably lived in peace.  They didn’t have to worry about tourists seeing every move they make and drawing conclusions based on such observations.  They also didn’t have to worry about making crafts and selling fruit to tourists to make a living.  I guess this is what the tourist industry is all about – showing how different people experience life – but at what point does this take away the authenticity of those lives by having them experience their life under constant eyes?  Does this change how they live compared to how they used to live?  Or does it not?   I think I would get really sick of it if I had lived there when the tourist boats weren’t going through.  When someone grows up with it, they don’t really know any different I guess.

That night was the countdown to my birthday.  We all split a bottle of $20 wine at dinner [which tasted off because the cork was dry. No wonder he didn’t hand it to me to sniff…].  After dinner Duc caught a little squid, but I felt bad for it so I threw it back in the water … but it was dead by then.  It died for nothing.  So sad. We all shared another bottle of wine after dinner.  Around this point I began drawing pictures and drew a pretty good one of Michelle.  This turned into a portrait drawing for everyone done by either me or Morris.  Michelle plugged her iPod into the crew’s computer and did step aerobics that mostly everyone joined in on.  It was cute, and the boat crew was very confused.

Community Drawing

Boat Aerobics!

After a while everyone started going to bed, so Jake bought another bottle of wine to ring in my new year.  He and I drank most of it., but Morris helped out a bit, too.  Morris was the one to stay up with me until midnight though – although the time difference made it confusing for me as to when to celebrate my birthday.  It wasn’t technically January 8th until 1 pm on the 8th, and it wasn’t actually my minute of birth until the morning of the 9th, our time.  Needless to say, I celebrated multiple times.

On second flight of the day…

Yesterday we did a lot of driving back to Hanoi from Ha Long Bay.  My stomach hurts a lot, but I’m not really shitting all over the place, fortunately.  Mai Shoua, Darla, and I went out to the night markets to buy leggings/tights and possibly outfits to wear out for my birthday night last night.  I ended up buying some leggings/tights that were falsely advertised on the packet and Russian vodka [my first alcohol purchase being 21, although Viet Nam doesn’t care how old I am].  My tights ended up being fishnets with larger holes down each side and fake butterfly looking tattoo things on each ankle.  UGLY.  I did not wear them out last night.  But the vodka, like all vodka, was horrible, horrible vodka since it tasted like rubbing alcohol, like all vodka.

Note the tights and my big sandaled feet.

I tried looking for a pair of heels last night and failed horribly – or brilliantly, depending on how you look at it.  The largest most of the shoe stores had was size 38.  That’s roughly a US size 7 1/2.  I haven’t been a size 7 1/2 since fourth grade.  This one lady shopkeeper tried kicking me out when I was looking at shoes because my feet were too big.  She pointed at my feet and went, “Go. Go.” and I kept saying, “No, that’s ok.  I’m looking for my friends.”  But it was pointless for me to say because she did not understand English.  Whenever I asked the people working if they had a size 40 or larger, they’d laugh, say no, and yell something in Vietnamese to the other worker.  Discrimination, I tell ya, against us big-footed women.  Luckily I had sandals tailer made for me in Hoi An, otherwise I’d have to wear my hiking sandals out like Katie had to!

When we were done listening to Katie’s presentation last night around 8:15 pm, Dreux pulled out a cake that said “Happy Birthday Kate.”  It was such a sweet gesture!  I got ready to go out after this.  Salmon colored, waist cinched short dress with a yellow flower/feather pin, hair down, mascara, and my tailored sandals.  It took everyone forever to get to our room to pregame, so I took a mini nap and didn’t really feel like going out.  Michelle did the same, seeing as she was very sick.  She passed out in her heels after we all left.  Poor girl.

My Last Day Being 20

To continue the story from the fifth, the night, when we were out for dinner, some dude with a speaker set and a microphone was walking around singing kareoke.  He was actually pretty good!

Yesterday, the sixth, we went to the enthology museum.  It was interesting.  There were a lot of different ethnic groups represented – although I don’t know if they were meant to be represented traditionally or modernly.  It’s hard to represent such groups without othering them, in a way.  Because while one is trying to show what a culture is like, one is also making distinctions and drawing on differences, which is perfectly fine, but at the same time creates cultural divides that make cause some to view these cultures as primitive.  That being said, it was very interesting.

Afterwards we went on a walking tour – meaning walking around where we had already been walking.  Duc, our tour guide, was a good tour guide though.  He didn’t talk too much, and let us come to him with questions instead of spitting a bunch of random knowledge at us.  He brought us to this shop and had us walk through it and down a hallway that had a little sign that read “CAFE.”  There was a hidden garden back there!!  And it looked really sweet and rustic and we were all excited because there was no one there, so we assumed that it wasn’t a touristy spot.  We walked up a bunch of flights of stairs to the very top – where there were like three tables of Westerners.  Damn.  It was still really cool though.

Welcome to Hanoi

Hanoi is not agreeing with me.  It’s not that I’m shitting all over the place – it’s that I’m not shitting.  I’m used to shitting like 2-3 times a day, not once every two days.  I enjoy shitting and it’s unfortunate that I haven’t had the opportunity to shit in a squatty potty because I feel like this is an experience I must experience – and then master.  There has to be some sort of art to shitting in a squatty potty.  I wonder if there are any statistics of the number of people who have shit in a squatty potty and then realized that they had no toilet paper … what do they do?!

Anyways, the rest of the train ride the other day went fast!  Michelle and I went to sleep around midnight and it was really chilly.  I was awakened by the smell of cigarette smoke around 4 am and decided that I wasn’t going to take that shit anymore.  I heard the guys speaking Russian, so I knew they weren’t workers that were smoking.  I stuck my head into the hallway and yelled to them as they were blatantly smoking in the hallway in front of a closed window. [Yes, this train’s windows opened!!]
“HEY! NO SMOKING!  THERE’S A FUCKING WINDOW IN FRONT OF YOU!  OPEN IT!  JESUS CHRIST!”
and I happened to yell it in my most obnoxious Northern Wisconsin accent.  I think they moved to the area between the cars, which is where they are supposed to smoke.  We reached Hanoi two hours later – 5:30 am.  It is SO COLD HERE.  I got wayyyy too used to the warm humid weather.  The street vendors here sell a lot of furry ear muffs, gloves, scarves, more face masks, hot food, Pho [Ga – chicken or Ba – beef], long sweaters, and blankets.

We ate breakfast at our travel agency’s stupid touristy restaurant – I got Pho Ga and hated it, because it hated me.  Immediately after I felt like shit, but I couldn’t shit because my body hates me in this city.  [I just really don’t feel good right now.  A cold.  My belly.  Sorry if I seem extremely unhappy.]

Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum

We immediately starting touring after this – Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. It was secure as shit.  They didn’t allow weapons [of course] or cameras or concealed hands.  Hands in pockets are viewed as a sign of disrespect and suspicious.  We walked a ways to this huge concrete building with a bunch of other people, all of us lined up in twos.  Ho Chi Minh had sooooo many guards around him – and he’s dead already.  This goes to show how important this man is to nationalism in Viet Nam.  I saw him for about 31 seconds, as I had to keep walking to keep the crowd moving.  Some people prayed to him, some people cried.  This was serious.  We walked the grounds a bit after this – saw where he used to live, his old cars, his old office and a bunch of stuff.  Afterwards we went to a museum that was really abstract and kind of confusing.  Two girls approached me [I’m assuming they were Vietnamese] and each wanted to take a photo with me!  So I posed for the two photos and then this other girl saw this and wanted a picture with me too!  Three photos!!  I didn’t know I stuck out THAT much.  We went to so many different museum things that I kind of lost track of everything.

We ate lunch at a nice upscale Vietnamese restaurant yesterday for lunch.  It wasn’t touristy – thank god.  But because I couldn’t shit, I didn’t eat much, and because I have a cold, I didn’t taste much either.  Us girls walked around town after we got back to the hotel.  We wanted to get some souveniry stuff for family and friends.  I spent most of the night searching for dinosaur patterns of the same stuff for Krista.  They don’t seem to have a lot of dinosaur stuff in this part of the world.  Lots of Angry Birds stuff though.

When we went walking around, we got turned around majorly.  The streets of Hanoi are narrow and super crowded, so we kept going in circles.  Darla [I helped, too] guided us back eventually.  The best part was when Michelle decided to do some price comparing on an item she already purchased.  She wanted to see if she paid too much.  Unfortunately, the lady didn’t understand due to the language barrier and followed Michelle around for seriously five minutes – two blocks. It was SO HILARIOUS.  Michelle kept saying, “Go away.  I don’t like you.”  English was not helpful in this situation.

A woman trying to get Michelle to buy a hat. SO FUNNY!

Around seven pm, us girls met up with Dreux for dinner.  We walked around for awhile before settling on some food.  I just got some corn from a vendor – it was amazing, although I’m sure what was all in the mixture [and I’m perfectly fine with that.]  The moment I handed her the money [I needed change], I heard some loud speaker behind me from out of nowhere.  Police were driving down the street in a truck with a bunch of guys.  The vendor lady freaked out, “Go! Go!”, and gave me my money, “Go! Go!”  Everyone selling stuff on the street rushed to pull everything on the sidewalks – the police were controlling illegal vendors.  This must be a normal thing because everyone had their merchandise partly on the street on cardboard, so pulling everything onto the sidewalks went very smoothly.  I’m not sure if I could get in trouble for purchasing, but they must get in trouble for selling.  Literally, right after the truck passed, everyone dragged their goods back on the street.  This was the first time I saw any enforcement of law in this country.  Traffic laws seem to just be suggestions.  People sometimes drive on the wrong side of the street.  Sometimes traffic heading one way will take up the entire street, converting it into a one way.  It’s nuts.  People cut each other off, ride each other’s asses – but I honestly think that the people in these large crowded cities are the best drivers.  [At least better than American drivers.]  There are enough rules of thumb established that everyone has to watch out for everyone else.

I farted and Michelle suffocated.

I woke up an hour before another lecture.  This one was brutal for me because my sinuses were so stuffed that I could barely keep my eyes open.  It was bad.  I went back to sleep for a while, but not before Katie and I headed  to the local market.  This market isn’t gained by tourists.  It’s legit and they sell things local people actually use.  The women selling stuff thought I was hilarious because I had my bunch of bananas and green oranges in a bag, both hanging from my backpack.  I was also carrying three liters of water.  I felt like I was actually grocery shopping.  So it was pretty nice not feeling like a tourist for a bit.

We went to the train station in Da Nang to head to Hanoi.  The train station is pretty nice in that no smoking is allowed, although it cost 1,000 dong to pee.  I found it comical because here was no toilet paper [no dispenser, so not even an attempt], and there was a man peeing in the women’s bathroom when I went.  [“Nam or nu?” is “Man or woman?”]  I mean I shouldn’t complain about the bathroom costing 1,000 dong … that’s really only a nickel.  Seriously.  But 20,000 dong [which is a dollar] goes a longer way in Viet Nam than a dollar goes in the US.  So every 1,000 dong really matters.

There was a little boy sitting in front of me at the train stop and we kept playing peek-a-boo.  The lady next to me offered him a banana [and offered me one, too] and he took it in the shyest manner.  I started eating my own banana, and only after this did he decide to eat his.  He was so cute.  I started eating my Ban My sandwich and hit a pepper and started dying and his eyebrows made the most concerned look – adorable!

My Bahn Mi lunch at the train station – wrapped in notes.

They were someone’s English notes!

My luggage has gained so much weight on this trip although the bananas and oranges currently attached to it are not helping].  I unfortunately am struggling to carry my large backpack and day pack now.  I’m thinking about getting another backpack for the way home.  We’ll see what happens.

Right now I’m on the train again, in a cabin with three other people.  This one seems a little nicer than our first one.  Granted, the first one was my first one and therefore I had nothing to compare it to.  I farted earlier, and since I have a cold, I couldn’t smell it … but Michelle could and she made the biggest deal about it for about ten minutes.  So I never owned up to it [until now].  It was hilarious watching her struggle, freak out, and lose her appetite though. 😀

Train Beer!